Saint Jesse

After District Conference we acted like tourists and shopped in the souvenier stores in downtown Maseru, Lesotho. A brief history: when the Afrikaneer Vortrekkers moved into this area to escape the British in the Capetown area, they pushed the Basotho tribespeople over the Caledon River into what is now Lesotho. In the 1980's Lesotho was ranked as the third poorist nation in the world. It's improved a bit we learned.

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Before we crossed the border, we visited the Folk Art Market. This cooperative was founded by Peace Corps volunteers. A number of Basotho women, using local wool, weave by hand traditional scenes on handbags, tapestry, placements and coasters.

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We travelled over the border into South Africa and Ficksburg. This small city on the Lesotho border is by far the quaintest, safest and most reminescent of the old midwest we've yet encountered. The tree lined streets shade older stone homes, many without bars on the windows and some without the imposing spiked fences we've seen in previous towns. Perhaps it's a matter of time, after all, Ficksburg is a city of about 5,000 mostly whites and the adjoining black township, with high unemployment, are you ready for this, is 80,000!

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But the town bustles. The downtown shops are open and used - again, no megamalls here. The streets are quiet after hours. The local real estate market is on the upswing as crime-sick residents of Johannesburg discover the serene setting against the Soutkop ("Salt head") rock outcropping. Cherries, peaches and asparagus grow in abundance here, locals can drive just a few blocks before passing someone they know and wave to. "B&B" signs are many giving this shady town an extra plesant feel.

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We toured the Jesse Poly Clinic on the Lesotho side of the border. Here we met a most remarkable man. Dr. N. Gyasi-Agyei is from Ghana. He's a Rotarian living in Ficksburg who makes the daily drive over the border to serve as the only doctor in the area administering to the Basotho. He's a striking figure, his skin darker than the Basotho, he dresses in white from head to toe, easily standing out in any group. His ever present smile, sparkling eyes and warm demeanor combine to draw people to him. He patiently explained his efforts to "Try to fix the dying" in a country ravaged by HIV/AIDS. A saint, he's ben here for 17 years.

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Dr. Jesse explained that while there are no exact figures on the extent of the HIV infection, he's able to estimate from testing pregnant woman the rate to be almost 50% of the population that visits his clinic. In Maseru, the capitol, he estimates the rate of infection to be 46%. Lesotho is third in the world, behind Swaziland and Botswanna for HIV infection.

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The clinic is supported by grants from the Irish, German and Japanese governments and private groups including the Clinton Foundation. More money is needed to supply life-saving ARV drugs and to promote education.

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Our Rotray hosts, Verney Halse, Vernon Joughin and Jim Lundberg saw to it that we were happy in Ficksburg. More to come...